women in wine: mackenzie brisbois
It’s no secret we’re fans of all things that come out of Trail Estate Winery — we have been hooked since our first visit to Prince Edward County a few years ago. From the fresh and funky, to the classics that bring the true taste of the County soils to life, there is no question that Mackenzie Brisbois, winemaker and vineyard manager at Trail Estate, has a gift.
With the promise of spring in the air, PEC wineries have slowly started reopening their bottle shops and outdoor tasting areas. We were lucky enough to catch up with Mack at the winery with a glass of her newest Chardonnay release — the 2019 County Chardonnay ‘V4’. We talked about her love of all things Chardonnay, what it has been like being a woman in a male dominated industry, how she found her way as a winemaker, and her advice for women looking to follow in her footsteps.
HTB: Take us back to the beginning — is there a moment you remember when you knew you wanted to pursue working in the wine industry?
MB: I took a wine course while I was at university and really enjoyed how it tied together my Biology and English degree — that’s also when I discovered that I actually liked to drink wine!
HTB: Did you always know you wanted to be a winemaker, or were there other jobs in the wine industry that interested you?
MB: I first started working at Carmela Estates Winery in Prince Edward County in the summer — it’s now known as Casa Dea Winery. I worked on the tasting bar, giving tours and working weddings in the banquet hall. I didn't know much about wine, except that it could be red or white. I remember peering down into the cellar and thinking it looked really cool. I ended up becoming a winemaker through a bit of work and a bit of luck. After going back to school and working in cellars for a few years, friends of mine hired me to look after their winery on Vancouver Island.
“I ended up becoming a winemaker through a bit of work and a bit of luck.”
HTB: What originally brought you to Prince Edward County?
MB: I actually grew up in PEC and I love it here!
HTB: What do you think makes Prince Edward County so unique in the world of wine?
MB: Prince Edward County has two very important aspects for wine-growing. It has the amazing limestone soils that lend themselves so well to Chardonnay and it has an eccentric community of winemakers and grape growers.
HTB: What is the most rewarding part about being a winemaker?
MB: At the end of each season the Nouveau Wines are bottled and the rest of the wines have been put to barrel. The vineyard is all tucked in under geotextile fabric. I can walk through the vineyard or in the cellar and appreciate everything that has happened over the past year. That, and drinking the wine I've made, of course!
HTB: What is the most challenging part about being a winemaker?
MB: Motivating yourself to keep pushing when you are tired and cold!
HTB: Can you describe your winemaking style in three words or less?
MB: Delicious, minimal intervention.
HTB: Do you have any mentors you look up to in the wine industry, or otherwise?
MB: I very much look up to Gavin Robertson at Niagara College. He is a fountain of information and I go to him constantly for help. I also really looked up to Richard Karlo. He was constantly full of bright light. He had an amazing laugh which still reminds me to lighten up and that things can be stressful, but they don't have to be awful. It's important to have fun even when things are tough.
“There have been so many women silenced for standing up for themselves.”
HTB: Why do you think women are underrepresented in wine? What do you think needs to change to make space for women to enter this industry?
MB: I am starting to become more outspoken about my position and how impossible it is. I have three kids and I have the most understanding employers, but it is still a constant battle to manage everything. I constantly feel guilty for not spending enough time at work or not spending enough time with my children. My house is dirty. On paper, yes, I make it work. The reality is a lot of ups and downs and sometimes it doesn't feel like it's worth it. Being pregnant and taking parental leave are real challenges, especially in a small winery. In many families women have stopped working to look after children.
There are other reasons women are underrepresented, but I have less personal experience with them. Women just haven't been given the voice and the credit that is due. There have been so many women silenced for standing up for themselves. We need to advocate for ourselves. But above all the industry needs to offer more of a level playing field to not only women, but to anyone who has been marginalized. Working and making wine is important, but not as important as your own happiness. I believe there is balance to be found — I just haven't found it yet!
HTB: Do you have any tips or advice for women looking to get into the industry?
MB: Yes! Just go for it. If anyone tells you differently, take what you can from it and move on. I have been told I shouldn't be a winemaker because I'm a woman. I have been told I'm useless, that I hid from real cellar work, that I need to work more efficiently when I asked for help. People have their own agendas, winemaking can be stressful and alcohol can negatively affect many managers in wineries. Any person can hold you back and I believe it is up to me to stand up for myself. So my advice is go for it. Let no one stand in your way.
